December, 2004, Ghasiram Sot, Chilla Range, Rajaji National Park. The mixed Sal forests along the foothills of the Himalayas were quiet. The nomadic Gujjar pastoralists who had occupied these forests had vacated as part of a voluntary resettlement program, and there was lush Saccharum spontaneum grass in the once heavily overgrazed dry river beds. Emerging from the tall grass, I came face to face with a magnificent tusker. Surprisingly, he did not react, but stood tall, calm and composed, his … Read More